DESIGN & TELL with Malabar

What inspired you to start your brand?
The brand was started by Peter Sterck and he saw a gap in the market for high quality, hand spun cotton fabrics in vibrant colours. I was inspired to take over the brand because I was previously an employee and a dear friend of Peter’s. So, I developed a great love for the product & the process and Peter’s enthusiasm for fabric was infectious. I knew firsthand how our business positively impacted a community and was keeping craft alive. Lastly, I saw how designers responded so viscerally to the product, and the brand.

How would you describe your brand's identity in three words?
Creative, colourful and honest.

What’s the story behind the name of your brand?
The Malabar Coast refers to a region along the Kerala coast on the Arabian Sea, where the bulk of our fabrics are made. It is where Peter first visited and met the family we’ve now worked with since the mid 80’s. It is associated with colonial trade routes, handicraft traditions and the blending of South Indian, Arab & European influences. Peter never told me exactly why he named the company Malabar but I suspect  It felt fitting to name the brand after the area where we work. It’s also just a strong sounding name.

How did your relationship with George Spencer Designs begin?
It came through a mutual friend who we work closely with and trust. Turns out, the team at George Spencer were also inquiring about Malabar

What makes your brand a good fit for the George Spencer Designs portfolio?
There is a strong support of creative, independent brands at George Spencer and that’s the kind of spirit I look for in partnerships. I see Malabar as a great compliment to the GSD portfolio – and the other brands are a great compliment to us! I am honoured to be next to such high quality design.

Where do you draw inspiration from for your collections?
It’s hard to answer that in an organized way because it never feels linear. I would say it starts with being deeply interested & invested in technique & process.  Many ideas come from visits to India, in the weaving sheds – at the dyeing units. Often it will spark an idea “Hey, do you think this is possible?” Then…we turn to art, nature, fashion, movies, music – life. Our new collection came from spending time learning pottery in an outdoor pottery studio, run by two women, in Goa, India.

How important is craftsmanship and material quality to your brand?
It’s the cornerstone of the brand. It’s the reason Malabar fabrics have a specific ‘look’ & feel. The machine can’t replicate that. 

How do you balance tradition and innovation in your work?
I think they can go hand in hand. You can take traditional techniques and innovate them through design & pattern. It’s about finding synergy in the two, they are not in competition with each other. Tradition teaches us, innovation moves us forward with that information.

Are there any artisanal techniques or heritage practices you’re especially proud to preserve?
Hand spinning / bobbin winding is something that I’m proud to say we preserve. No machines!

How does sustainability factor into your design and production process?
Before I answer this, I want to be clear that the textile industry, by its nature is not very sustainable. However, in the making of Malabar fabrics we do our best. There is little, to no, electricity used in our handwoven fabrics. The weather where we produce allows for open air ventilation and lots of natural light. So, not even lights are on in some of the weaving sheds. Our yarn is VAT dyed in small batches, by hand. It is then air dried in the hot sun for natural curing and then in open ventilated rooms for shade. The fabric is hand tied to the loom and then woven by hand. Because of this we can produce in smaller batches limiting waste. 

Are there any specific ethical or environmental goals your brand is working toward?
I feel confident that we do our best to balance our production output with market demand, so we don’t over-produce. That’s always a tricky equation to get right. I would like to focus more of my attention on becoming a B certified company. 

Have there been any standout projects or collaborations in recent years?
No collaborations in recent years…but, it’s on the mood board!

What does a typical day look like for you?
No day runs in a linear way. I have grand dreams that my days will take on some kind of ‘typical’ structured way, but running a business means that you have to be able to pivot. I do try to keep my mornings reliable though. I like them quiet, with coffee. I am not prone to activity first thing in the morning – so it’s coffee and reading. The team and I have a Monday check-in meeting every week at the same time. We each go down our list of tasks and goals for the week ahead and discuss issues, wins and ideas. After that, it’s a mix of phone calls, video meetings, admin, creative planning and staying connected to peers & sales reps.

What’s the most challenging part of running your business?
The hefty administrative side, rather than being  creative.  

What’s the most rewarding part?
That I work with kind, passionate & fun people. And, the process!  I love visiting India and watching these fabrics come to life. I am in awe, every single time. 

What’s next for your brand?
More expansion in other markets. 

Are there any exciting product launches or initiatives coming up?
Yes, we have some new patterns launching in September. It feels old/new Malabar.